Tuesday, July 12, 2005

Turkish Time Warp

What day is it? Where am I? These are questions one starts to ask oneself after 4 weeks in Turkey - - particularly if you have spent 6 nights cruising around the Mediterranean.
We did manage to finally drag ourselves out of a lazy, sun-drenched stupor and head to Olimpos for a night of recovery. Olimpos is famous for its treehouses. Don't be fooled into thinking it is actually a town. It is a long dirt road flanked by shack-like treehouses and bungalows with a chilled out hippy sort of vibe. It also felt (and looked) quite a bit like summer camp. A 15 minute walk past the dirt road leads to a pebbly beach where we soaked up what will be our final beach rays for a little while now. We spent only one night here before spending a semi-miserable night on the road to the town of Goreme in the Cappadocia region of Turkey.
We spent 3 nights in Goreme and visited the various sites of the region -- lots and lots of caves. Lots and lots of bizarre rock formations. It was hot and dry, but a wonderful and relaxed little town to spend a few nights in. One of the highlights was "Turkish Night", kind of a dinner show with a whirling dervish demonstration, a couple of hours of lively folk dancing, a belly dancing performance and a steady stream of alcohol which was included in the deal. By the time the belly dancing began, it was all getting pretty funny. Of course the belly dance grabs half a dozen men to participate and makes them all take their shirts off. By this time, Laurel and I had made friends with two hilarious college boys from the states and we nearly wet ourselves laughing at them trying to belly dance in front of an enormous crowd. Definitely one of the main highlights of Turkey in my opinion.
I had a request for some description of the smells of Turkey, and the first thing that honestly comes to mind is body odor. I really think a lot of Turkish men have never heard of deoderant. The first time we had this pungent experience was actually on the Turkish Airlines flight out of Casablanca to Istanbul. Funny that this should be so common here given that every time you get onto a bus in Turkey the bus attendant comes by and pours lemony cologne onto everyone's hands. Somehow they live and die by this cologne but can't be bothered to put some anti-perspirant under their arms! You may be wondering about this cologne thing now? Seriously, when you get on the bus there is an attendant (who also serves the coffee, tea, soda and biscuits which are included in the bus fare) who comes by with a big bottle of what I can only describe as a mixture of alcohol and lemon and pours some into everyones hands. The men will rub it on their face and through their hair even.
Incidently, if Turkey is home to B.O., then Morocco is home to cross-eyeds. Really. I noticed people with one crossed eye repeatedly in Morocco.
Aside from the B.O. though, Turkey didn't strike me as terribly stinky or full of garbage -- even though the bus drivers throw their trash out the window (much to my irritation).

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